Permit Required?
Local utility company (Locate underground services)
Locate property pins, if needed

Tools/Supplies Needed:
25 ft. and 100 ft. tape - spray paint (bright color)
1/2" X 24" rebar to go with spool of yellow masonry line
10" (minimum) power auger and hand diggers
Post level - hammer - circular saw with plywood blade

Make your layout using the rebar stakes and masonry line per the illustration. Decide which side of the string line represents the back of the post. Be sure that the string is on the side of the rebar. Pull the string tight and tie it off at each rebar. View Vinyl Fence GRAPHIC DRAWING #1
Using the 100 ft. tape and the spray paint, mark you holes on 8 ft. centers, 2-1/2" in from the string line. (The string represent the back of the post and 2-1/2" in - is the center of the 5" square posts). Remember to make the gate opening.
Start drilling!! (Simply push the string line away from you with your foot). Clean all the holes with the hand diggers.
Place posts in the holes - lean them away from the string. Lay out one bag of quikrete (80#) per hole. View Vinyl Fence GRAPHIC DRAWING #2
Place your post where it needs to be in the hole - about 1/8" away from the string line and pour about 1 gallon of water into the hole. Pour the quikrete around the post, water will come up the sides of the hole when you have started with enough water. If no water comes up, you need to start with more. At any rate, by the third post, you'll have it figured out. Give the hole a drink on top and fill the hole with the dirt you just drilled out, stomp it good! Check the plumb on the post and go to the next post. (You do not need to poke and jab the quikrete to let the water down).
After setting a series of posts, you need to align the tops and double check the plumb. Make sure the first and last post you set are at the height you want. Now, look over the top of the end post and you'll see the posts that are too tall or short. If you pull a post up - be sure and get a small can full of quikrete inside this post. You need to fill the void created or it will slide back down, come freezing weather. Using a hammer and block of wood pound the post back down where it needs to be. To straighten the post - DO NOT - push or pull the top of the post!! Use your foot and press against the bottom of the post. Compact the ground as hard as possible.
Allow the concrete to set up - at least 24-25 hours - before you begin railing or try to hang your gates. Plug the ends of rails that are inside the hinge or catch post. Use tape on paper or plug ends...
Place rails in posts as per illustration. Start with bottom rail - slide it thru the middle post - notch the end - pop into the 3rd post. Start with an 8 ft. piece for the middle rail and do the same procedure. The end result is that all the seams are not on the same post.
View Vinyl Fence GRAPHIC DRAWING #3
Fill gate posts with concrete and rebar. See Vinyl Fence gate Picture. (Be sure that all hardware is mounted first!!) A small traffic cone with the nose cut off make a perfect funnel. Try to place the rebar as close to the middle as possible. Bring the concrete up to within 5-7" from the top. Put the cap on at an angle - you want the post to "breathe," but shed any rain or snow for a few days. For Gate Installation Instructions, Refer to Vinyl Horse Gate Install
See Vinyl Fence GRAPHIC DRAWING #4
Wipe concrete off of posts...put on the post caps.